
Giusti's is at the confluence of the Mokelumne River and Snodgrass Slough. You can get there by boat or by car. The interior is dark, the walls wooden, the air cool, and the diners loud, because they are having fun.

"Is the catfish good?"
"It's good if you like catfish. I don't eat catfish."
"We'll both take catfish."
The salad came in a small bowl with long salad servers. The dressing was 1000 Island. The table top was a map of the Delta's myriad islands.
"How's your daughter doing?"
"She was in Trinity, where that helicopter went down. I was panicked. Then she moved. The problem is, she breathed all that stuff. They had to give her prednisone."
"It's my birthday."

"Happy birthday."
"Yeah, a typical male. Sorry ..."
The long and narrow building forms an elbow, with bar for biceps and restaurant for forearm.
The owner went by with boxes on a dolly (you can tell him from the photos on the wall). He does the stocking.
They take cash, ATM, or check. No credit cards.
"I've got to go to work."
"Lucky you have a job."
Outside is a patio with tables and chairs, overlooking the Slough.
"You look confused ... or inquisitive."
"Both."