On the road down the hill from the abandoned school in Fort Bidwell is a Surprise Valley cowboy. "We sell lots of alfalfa, organic, some organic, people here don't like organic, all those tree-huggers and Greenpeace." He is a big man, silk scarf, cotton shirt, buttoned right up to the top button, chaps over jeans, and fancy reins. Flies cluster by the dozens on the eyes of his handsome horse. "My sons and I, we are ranchers. We winter here now. We used to winter the cattle in Chico and Willows, but fuel and freight ate us up. Bidwell is a great place to raise kids."
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